Ilha Grande: A Return to Eden

Ilha Grande: A Return to Eden

The Tamoio people were the first to set foot on the land which they called the “great island,” Ipaum Guaçú. Portuguese seafarers kept the name, but christened it in their own tongue. For hundreds of years, Ilha Grande on Brazil’s Costa Verde was the antipode of a paradise. Its bright reefs and fine sandy shores witnessed the extirpation of the indigenous inhabitants and the crux of the transatlantic slave trade. Succeeding centuries saw the continued evolution of a most maledictive place, with both a lazaretto and a maximum security penitentiary constructed on its grounds. In light of the misfortunes that befell Ilha Grande and its unwilling captives, there was one hidden grace. Lack of urban development had given nature an unfettered hand in shaping the terrain of this emerald isle. After the prison’s closure in 1994, the island’s perfectly preserved biosphere took to the spotlight with a halcyon charm. Free from the menace of disease and Brazil’s most dangerous felons, this lustrous green pearl off the coast of Rio de Janeiro became at last, in the new millennium, somewhere to set foot on once more. Continue reading “Ilha Grande: A Return to Eden”

Scenic Santorini: On the Trail from Fira to Oia

Scenic Santorini: On the Trail from Fira to Oia

I used to be fascinated with mythology as a child. The Greek pantheon, in particular, had always intrigued me with its tales of adventure and debauchery in faraway lands. Stories like Theseus and the Minotaur, the Birth of Aphrodite, and the Abduction of Ganymede untethered my attention from the ennui of school and homework. I dreamt often of these figures and of the vivid landscapes they inhabited; I dreamt that one day, I too, would traverse them on the way of my own adventure…
Continue reading “Scenic Santorini: On the Trail from Fira to Oia”